2007 version HERE

HIKING TO PERFECTION Same trip... different year. History repeats!

photos by WK, Bob Island, BK, and A- Dogg   Story by Wayne Kelly


A year later, the weather, swell, and the energy was the same... I knew it was time for the secret spot. A year before I had got it perfect, and the page is still posted in the WEBPAGE LIBRARY.  The secret spot requires a long hike and a lot of chance to get it. It doesnt really matter where it is, because its all about being in the right place at the right time.

A few days before the perfect day, the waves were alot bigger. I surfed this spot (pictured above) somewhere a little further north of Mexico, and it was pretty good.  Obviously I got a few big shacks, but it was alot of work, and it was far from perfect. There were long waits, close-outs, and big crowds. I was lucky to even get a wave this good as pictured above.


To get to the secret spot is not easy.The hike requires you to pack a meal, water and warm clothes just to start. Calculate a wetsuit and board into the picture and you have a full-on adventure. Fortunately a few friends wanted to come along, and we had a blast.


Alot of people ask me how to ride the barrel. I really dont think theres any particular secret. Sometimes you need to commit more and follow through so you make it, and I really believe thats where most surfers fail. It starts by not taking off deep in the wave... or sometimes behind the peak. I think most people, even alot of pros, take off too far on the shoulder.


This is where you get in the barrel, and decide what speed you need to be able to make it out. This is the honeymoon part of any tube, even if you dont make it. If the barrel is really long and stretched out, then I usually will give it a few pumps on the gas pedal. Here it looks like I might be waiting for something to happen.

PART 3- Correcting

In some part of the tube ride, your normally going to need to shift your rail in order to get out. The wave is always going to change shape, and you need to make small corrections to get out. This is where most people fail, and the work actually starts. Here I noticed the wave starting to clamp up a litle bit, so I pulled high to stay dry.


STEPPING ON THE GAS.  "You have to know when to walk away...and know when to run." This is the part when you want to make it, and you need a little speed release in order to escape. Right here I knew Im in a good spot, and I think I was pretty happy in there looking out. There were alot of tubes this day, but this one was textbook.


This can be the most rewarding part of the wave, yet it can be the hardest. There can be obstacles. The "bridal-veil" is the most common... which is a thin sheet of water than can fold down in front of you and separate you from the exit. Its usually a kiss of death to your tuberide. You may need to power-drill through a bridal-veil, or maybe a snowball or two to make it . Try that instead of whimping out and giving up like I know you want to.


At this point you know your making it... and you might think about hitting the lip or punting an air. Sometimes your just glad to make the wave, and you might just stand there all floppy-armed with a crap-eating grin. Or maybe you can do the standard ball-grab or hands-over-the-head claim. Whatever you do, you definitely ran the show for a second, and you'll probably paddle out all hungry-armed for the next one.-

Vertical snap in the mid-day..... photos by Bob Island.

I love this shot.... full speed on a Vernor 6'2". Order one and tell him Wayne sent you.

Afternoon perfection... I dont call it a perfect day unless its good ALL DAY.

Floating through the afternoon.

Every once in a while you could do a cutback... if you didnt want to kick out.

I just like this photo for the elements... glassy and perfect. Setting up the inside.

This is how perfect the ocean can be, thank a happy Neptune. Lefts from heaven.

The right was gooood!

On the other side of the channel was a perfect right... and sampling it was part of the main course. It was just as good as the left, but I liked both. Im not too picky when its this good.

Backdooring the right section. Notice the beautiful water color.

The sand-sucking inside section... it was hard one to beat, but it was perfect.

WK bowing down in hopes of making it. It was perfect... and makeable.


THE FRONTSIDE FLIP- Ive pulled a few flips, and this will give you an idea how I do it. Step one requires you throw it straight up and grab your rails. Part of the rotation is gauging how much your going to project toward the beach to keep up with the wave,


This is where you rely on your rotation, and hope you guessed the right amount of spin. Its the oddest feeling part of the flip, because your actually flying backwards for a second. It can blow your board right out of your hands, so a good grab is important.

STEP 3...The landing

Getting to this point gives you hope, but its one of the hardest tricks to complete. From this point on is where most people blow this trick. The secret is to land on the lip and float down on a bed of whitewater, but thats a dream scenario. Usually I land in the fluff and wrestle my way out to the flats, and if Im really lucky, back on the face.

An amazing sunset is always a prelude to a perfect day.

WALKING IN SOLITUDE-   same place different day in 2007


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