RIDING GIANTS PADDLING OUT DURING A 30 FOOT SWELL

PHOTOS BY BK, Lorinda Hampton, and Darryn story by WK   Jagged Point, Northern California

JANUARY 5, 2008   PETER DAVIS BIRTHDAY    IT WAS YOUR DAY PETE.. RIP BRUDDAH

PETES HOME,  NORTHERN CALIFORNIA

It was a day to remember. Maybe it was just chance, but how could a 30 foot swell land right on Pioneer and big-wave Legend Pete Davis Birthday? This would Petes Birthday present if he was alive, and I think he wished it for us today.

Wayne Kelly, and 10ft gun, ready to battle the paddle.

Pete was my hero when I was growing up. He pioneered alot of big-wave spots around here, and he was one of the few people that would paddle out with you when it was big. I miss seeing Pete driving around in his white truck, checking the surf. Alot of people miss Peter.

paddle-out.

I paddled out by myself, just in time for a set to stack up to the horizon. I barely made it over a few, just enough to rattle my nerves.

I paddled for a few big ones, but the wind was howling, and the waves were jacking up really hard. I was barely able to get into any.

My first one was a smaller one, but size is relative with waves this thick.

photos thanks to my brother, Bryan Kelly

It felt like the whole ocean was surging toward land, and the height of the wave did not matter.

Local surfer Justin Barret paddled out on a 7'5", and he was probably glad when he had to duck-dive this mean beast. Imagine just paddling out just to to be dealt this one, right on the head.

Justin diving deep. He has the skills.

I was glad to have the company, and its good to have a friend out for safety. Justin is a really good surfer, and it shows for just paddling out.

We both paddled for this beast, which is common in bigger waves. The 3 foot of extra surfboard paid off for me. Justin had to work for it.

PHOTO BY lORINDA HAMPTON

The wave started to jack up as it wrapped into the bay, and it stood up tall. Justin had a crazy drop. I dont think anyone could have made it.

All I could do was look back, and Justin was getting served. On a 7"5" shortboard, I give him props for just paddling out.

PHOTO BY lORINDA HAMPTON

After thinking I had it made, the wave decided it didnt like me on it either. It stood tall, and eventually gave me the smack down.

PHOTO BY lORINDA HAMPTON

Different wave, different angle. Pulling into the barrel on a 10 foot gun? Only on a 30 foot swell.

Just your inside little wave, right? Remember... thats a 10 foot surfboard.

I won a few battles, and I lost a few. I guess I was happy to make this one.

PHOTO BY lORINDA HAMPTON

When you go down, go down hard. Wayne paying the price to play.

I didnt make them all. Mid-face splatter platter.... yours truly, Wayne to the K.

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