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Surfing by yourself is pretty scary business. When your out in the middle of nowhere, surfing over dry rocks, in a really sharky area, its pretty hard to calm your senses. This reef is so isolated, that it’s a long drive and a treacherous hike no matter where you live.  So far I have only seen a few people there,  but no one goes there to surf. The wave is too dangerous for most people, because you have to air it over dry rocks and negotiate a really critical drop.

The few people that have checked it with me seem to think its not a very good wave. It rakes pretty shallow along this cobblestone point, and with the wrong tide there are dry rocks jutting into the face of the wave. A few years back a guy broke his leg surfing here, so the consequences are more real than any fairy tale I could begin to tell you.

There are parts of the wave that you must respect, and there are parts that you can hit. The barrel at this place is way more dangerous than the photos can explain… the wave sucks right over the rocks, so theres not much water between you and the bottom. It would be easy to break  a fin off just riding the tube.

The photos might make it look like an easy place to hit the lip, but its actually very risky and the wave features can change really fast. You have to stay on your toes, and not assume the wave will keep shape.

If you are wondering how to get to this spot, your not in luck. Not only is this place hard to get to, there are no maps, and no one surfs it. It only breaks on a specific tide, with a specific swell, on certain conditions. Otherwize, you will have made a long trip to no where with nothing to show for it. Even if you did find this spot, there are sharks, rocks, mountain lions, poison oak and nasty kelp balls. The wave is expert only, and if you are not completely on your game, you are risking your life and your limbs.

The power of this wave can not only be seen in the face. Check out the whitewater.