Text Box: The Most Amazing January of Surfing? Try 2009.
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Photos by WK,  Dewey and Holly.

 

Here I am setting up for a two week surfing spree. It was unreal for days, and every Surfer I know is sore beyond belief. The weather, wind, and swell co-operated in a symphony of unforgettable memories.   Photo by Dewey.

 

Around these parts, its become a rule that it cant be considered an epic day unless the wind blows offshore from dawn to dusk. It is an element that makes it hard to consider many days epic. Except for this January. Epic days occurred many dayz on end.  Heres jus one of em. 

Photo by WK.

 

A lot of people leave for somewhere when they take a vacation, and that’s cool. My brother BK works his ass off all year, and then takes some weeks off in the winter when there is a good streak of surf.  Here my brother gets one of the best barrel photos Ive taken. Hands down he surfed more than anyone in California this month, period. Dawn to dusk, every day. Photo by me.

 

I went down the beach on one of the perfect smaller days, and surfed by myself.  On the other side of the channel, my two friends were basically having a surf contest, sparring hard on the hollow right. These two guys, Wes Williams and Danny Hart, were pushing World Class level.  I have traveled with Dan to compete in many Pro-Surfing events. Im telling you these guys were raising the stakes. 

 

Danny was taking off deep, and getting some long clean barrels across the sandbar, The water was crispy but really clean, and man days of sunshine made for good photo lighting.  Photo by Holly.

 

It wasn't about winning or losing. It was about sharing the harvest of  perfect waves, and pushing the performance level.  Here Wes throws up a Christmas Tree of spray, and achieves surfings greatest reward… the pleasure of surfing.  These two guys have a committed passion for surfing, and that’s why they are my friends.  Oh yeah, they surf pretty damn good too. Ha ha.  Photo by Holly

 

Down the line from the outside, Hart cracked it at least five times to the inside. All I saw was spray flying out the back… ha ha.  Dan broke his leg bad last year, and obviously he has made one hell of a recovery.

 

After watching these two guys completely tear the crap out of the right bowl, I had to paddle across and see what all the hype was about. Right when I got there I saw Danny get a standup pit. He had a huge grin on his face, like he just one the lottery or something. In this photo Im setting up a nice tube on the good spot, which was not too hard to do this day.  Photo by Holly.

 

Wes laying into a power house.

 

The left was fun, but not as lined up.

 

Before the swell came up.

 

After the swell came up,  it became evident that experience and  prowess were placing local surfers into the better waves. Here surfer “T-Rex” pulls into a thick Pacific grinder,  chillin in about 52 degree water temp.

 

Is this some exotic wave on some Island in Indonesia? Or is this  NorCal…. I dunno. My brother doesn't care, he is  happy to chill and surf at home with days like this.  Photo by me.

 

Magi-Cali? Yes.. It was magical California. Want to jump in your car, or on a plane to come surf this? Don’t even bother. Looking out the window right now, its cold, rainy,windy and flat… no chance of the waves being this good for a while. Come check this Pointbreak out tomorrow, and you will not want to surf it. When it is this good, I think every spot in California is jus as good.

Someone looked at this photo, and  asked me if that was my red board in the barrel right there. The answer is no, I took this photo.  I spent very little time shooting photos…. I was more into surfing it. To get as many photos as I did in a short time goes to show how good it was. I don't know whos posted in the barrel here in this photo, but I hella know what they feel like right now.

 

Pictured here is some lucky unknown bastard who showed up jus on the right day.

 

Another day, another thousand barrels.  How can so many days in January be sunny and perfect?

 

Heres my brother BK again, on a different wave from one of the amazing January days.

 

Todd “Sharkboy” Endris posts up a year and a half after getting attacked by a Great White Shark close to this spot. 

 

Dawn to dusk, this was a truly perfect day. I guess you could label it epic.

 

Heres my bro BK again, late one evening. He surfed all day, and he must be so tired right here.