WALKING IN SOLITUDE.

NEXT DAY......... WAYNE KELLY HOOKS IT UP WITH 2 PHOTOGRAPHERS.......CLICK HERE

A short photo essay of my little hike through the dunes.... photos and story by Wayne Kelly

self-portrait.... Wayne Kelly

It was a beautiful day. Not a cloud in the sky. Winds were offshore, but the weather was very chilly.  I decided to drive and hike to a spot that I knew would be optimum. I thought of a few people that I would love to be with, but they were unreachable.  I decided to start hiking into a spot where I knew I could have fun. A spot where I knew was blocked by the wind, and was warm and inviting with perfect waves.  Sound too good to be true? It wasn't. Scroll on.

         

On a day where most were bundled up, I decided to get some rays and check the spot I had just hiked to. It was beyond just good. I mean, this wave was world-class.... you could spend thousands searching for waves this good. I thought of all of my friends, even ones that I didn't know that well and I wished they were here to share it with. Even if they didn't surf,  they would have been moved by the elements, the beauty, and just this particular spot at this particular time.

  Alone in the perfection of the ocean.

I surfed for hours, and it was an inspiring experience. I didn't need anyone to have fun. I was having the time of my life. Yeah, a few hoots from my brother in the line-up would have been nice, but the waves poured in, and peeled perfectly down the sandbar like a machine. It was an amazing sight, and I swear that I surf better when theres perfect waves with no one out., and not just because I can lie about it. heheh. Actually, with no one out, any wave can be yours.

I don't know how many waves I caught like this, but I don't  think I could ever get enough.

On the hike out, I had to look back and re-evaluate.  Every time I did, it was confirmed.... this spot was epic.

A closer look at the rifle-range. This will be the only clue to where this is.

A guy named Mike was surfing the right, and he stuffed up more than one barrel. Keep in mind that I shot photos for about 10 minutes, and this was not even close to his best wave.

there was another.......

and another

and another

and another................... gotta go. Can't tell you where!!!!!

NEXT DAY......... WAYNE KELLY HOOKS IT UP WITH 2 PHOTOGRAPHERS.......CLICK HERE

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GIANT SWELL JANUARY 2007